![]() Use a photo that has a high resolution (1 MB or higher ). There are a ton of free online sites you can use. For this photo, the only editing I did was to increase the shadows a little to give it more depth. Once you like how it looks, you can send it to a photo shop for printing. The most important thing is that you have a wood canvas that is the same size. Turn over your canvas and add petroleum jelly or cooking oil to the underside. Resin drips won’t stick, and you pop them off later. Paint the side of the canvas with whatever color compliments your photo. Prop the wood canvas panel up with your painter triangles. (I did not seal the photo or do anything to it, and there was no staining.)Īpply a thin layer of glue to the front of the canvas and place the photo onto the glue. If you use a photo that you cut or alter in any way, seal the sides to prevent the resin from staining the photo. Press it down from the middle and work your way out. Place your wax paper on top of the photo as you press it down. This will keep glue that oozes out underneath from spilling onto the photo.If it’s your first transfer, converting it to black and white is a good idea to get some practice. If not converting to black and white, desaturate the colors a bit. Turn the contrast UP UP UP!!! Unless you are an experienced painter and can blend/shade well. ![]() Resize your photograph to meet the dimensions of the surface. If it’s something large like 16x20, you will want to cut the image into four 8x10 sections. (Especially if there is type on it or it will be backwards haha.) Print your image! Print on regular paper, not photo paper. It’s an amazing printer, but I’ve found that inkjet doesn’t work as well. I take mine on a thumb drive to Staples for prints, and you really can’t beat $0.11 / print (2014). Just remember to tell them to use regular paper.Ĭut your photograph: When cutting the photograph I use a razor and a ruler. Line the ruler up with the edge, and be sure to put the ruler on the the part of the photo that's not printed. Press firmly with one hand and use the razor while pressing firmly to cut your straight edge. I just find that this method works better than scissors. Get a spray bottle and spray a section of your transfer. Let the water sit for a couple of seconds as to wet the paper through, and rub gently. Do this for the entire image, but save the edges for last. So don’t mess up your print! (Even if it does run a bit it can create a cool effect, and a lot of times you can paint to fix what you’ve messed up.) A lot of times, the edges seem to be the hardest and typically paint will smudge for some reason. If your print was a little larger than you canvas, and you’ve pressed the edges down around it during the transfer process, save that for the absolute last rubbing. It just makes things easier in my opinion. The rubbing process will likely take you many times. This is the longest part of the transfer process, and many times I end up rubbing the entire thing 10+ times. The best thing to do is to go over the entire picture, let dry, then repeat as many times as necessary to get all the excess white paper film off the print. I also use a toothbrush for the really textured areas. I like to use circular motions and the rub over with my finger to wipe away the paper after using the toothbrush while it’s still a little wet. If you don’t, you’ll likely still end up with a mighty white paper film all over the textured parts.Īt this point, your transfer still looks rough, but not to worry! This step ties your print, collage, and paint together into a cohesive statement especially if you’ve accidentally rubbed some of your print off during the rubbing process. Most tutorials advocate starting with your lightest color and repainting from there. ![]() I start with the blacks first especially if there’s not a stark contrast added to the photo. I fill in the blacks on the print then add my color to the paint palette with extra water and mix well.
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